A Foodie's Guide To Copenhagen
Copenhagen has become a home away from home for me these past two years. I started as a tourist, but this past summer, I got to fully immerse myself in its vibrant culture while living and working here. I used these perspectives to bring you some of Copenhagen’s most famous spots and best-kept secrets. Whether you're ticking off touristy must-dos or diving into local favorites, this super flexible guide ensures you can either spread your culinary adventure over several days or make it a full-day whirlwind.
The Rundown
SUMMER
FLEXIBLE
6 RESTAURANTS
3 ATTRACTIONS
TRANSPORT
Frederiksberg Have
Our journey begins in my old neighborhood of Frederiksberg, characterized by its charming and homey streets. A morning stroll through Frederiksberg Gardens is the perfect way to start the day. Built around Frederiksberg Palace, which emerges in bold yellow, this vast garden, like many in Copenhagen, is cherished for its lush greenery, serene ponds and canals, and rugged interlocking running paths. Plus, the palace has tours inside, and from one corner of the garden, you can look into the Copenhagen Zoo and see elephants!
Breakfast
A stroll down the road will lead you to Ipsen and Co for breakfast. Nestled on the corner of Gammel Kongevej, this quaint cafe offers lovely breakfast plates and pastries. It's a charming spot but it can fill up.
You could start off with a classic bolle med ost (bun with cheese) or indulge in a morning plate, which has a bit of everything. A bun with cheese is essential to a true Danish culinary experience but their homemade granola, freshly pressed orange juice, and rich coffee work so well together. BMOs are made with freshly baked sourdough buns and uniquely Danish cheese. They are so common that there are rankings of the best and worst ones. Whatever you decide, you won't be disappointed.
The Lakes
Further west lies three man-made lakes that cut through the city. These lakes offer a genuine glimpse into the everyday life of Copenhagen. From parents with their children in strollers to flusters of construction workers and street musicians on the bridge, here you get a different perspective of the city in action. Take a relaxing stroll along the lakeside or rent a foot paddle boat and tread the water. It's great for both people and bird-watching. My mother and I used to spend our Sunday afternoons here all the time.
Kaffe
No trip to Denmark is complete without reveling in the delightful world of Danish pastries and coffee. Make a stop for a classic kanelsnegle (a cinnamon bun), or my personal favorite, a cardamon twist, at any of the coffee shops along the lakes. You can grab it to go just remember it's best eaten fresh.
The Artisan has been my go-to after I took refuge there during an unexpected sleet storm on my third day in Copenhagen. The quality of the coffee is unmatched, and they team up with some of the biggest names in the Danish pastry world. Alternatively, you could try Original Coffee. It’s a chain, but their banana bread with coffee cream is so irresistible. I think about it daily.
Davids Samling
The David Collection holds a special place in my heart. Its unassuming exterior makes the museum’s historical pieces all the more surprising. Its extensive Islamic art collection spans three floors, and the Danish and European paintings and interior decor make full-scale living rooms on the lower floors. P.S. It's free!
If art history is not your schtick, don't worry. Downtown Copenhagen is filled with museums and stores for all interests, whether it’s film, fashion, science, or even obscure music (there are plenty of record stores). Now is the time to seize the day and immerse yourself in whatever you fancy.
Lunch
Diving belly first into more Danish classics, Café Halvvejen is a quintessential Danish dining experience. Run by a delightful couple, this homey spot offers a truly traditional food experience on a budget. The café may be on the smaller side, but its menu has a variety of classic dishes.
There are hearty meals with loads of meat, bread, and potatoes but if you prefer something light and fresh, there are platters of seafood and veggies. You could also try the classic smørrebrød which is an open-face sandwich of rye bread topped with fish or cold meats and different garnishes. Its authenticity and warmth will make you want to go back.
Kongens Nytorv & Nyhavn
Finally, you’ve arrived at the heart of Copenhagen, Kongens Nytorv (the Kings New Square) which lies between Strøget - the high street, and Nyhavn - the iconic rows of multicolored houses. This is where all the tourists gather in hoards. Amidst the chaos, resist the urge to get sucked into the endless stream of shopping options along Strøget, and instead, take a trip up the Christiansborg Palace Tower for a panoramic view of the city. Walk along Nyhavn’s multicolored (and super expensive) homes including one where Hans Christian Andersen once lived. From here, you can also take a canal boat tour, which leaves every half hour.
Pro tip:
Avoid the souvenirs overflowing from the stores on Strøget. Better yet, look out for local artisans, skilled potters, and artists in the same area. You'll find unique and special pieces that make for a more meaningful keepsake or gift.
Sweet Treats
At Confecture Copenhagen, you can sample some of their unique and classic ice cream flavors, my favorite is rhubarb, or you can grab a selection of their delectable chocolates. Then, take a break by the canal right outside and watch the boats go by. I think it is every Dane's dream to get a boat.
For some more sightseeing, Freetown Christiania is just around the corner. It is the home of the famous Christiania bikes which you will have seen by now. Though the lore behind the anarchist community is exciting, the buzz has slowly dwindled. Still, they’ll have free concerts and fun events every other week in the summer.
Dinner
If you’ve been biking thus far, consider hopping on a bus, as now might be the perfect time for an evening trip to Reffen. Located on the warehouse island of Refshaleøen, Reffen Street Food is a collection of food stalls specializing in international and fusion cuisines. It also serves as a hub for innovators, a performance venue, and host of many summer music festivals. Though it may not be a frequent activity, it is an unmissable opportunity.
Refshaleøen is also home to Noma, often hailed as the world's best restaurant, so I tell myself that just being in its proximity makes the food even more amazing. At Reffen, you will be spoiled for choice. Grab a seat overlooking the water, and a cool drink, and cherish a day well spent as the sun sets.
(usually around 9:30 PM in July )
Copenhagen's Night Life
If you are up for more fun, dive into the city's vibrant nightlife. Guides like this one from VisitCopenhagen, feature popular spots like BRUS and Åben and explain the ever-expanding craft beer industry in Denmark.
End off your day with a midnight munchie at Dürüm Symfoni or any of the numerous kebab shops in the Nørrebro area, most of which stay open past 2:00 am. A flavorful finale to your Copenhagen experience.
Cheers to a successful culinary and cultural adventure!
ADD THE MAP TO FOLLOW ALONG!
The bicycle route starts from the Frederiksberg Gardens and ends in Christianshavn